What We Tell Travelers Before Visiting Luxor

Think in banks: the West Bank (royal tombs and mortuary temples) needs a full early morning, and the East Bank (Karnak and Luxor Temple) needs a second half-day. The standard Valley of the Kings ticket covers a set number of tombs, with famous tombs such as Tutankhamun's and Seti I's sold separately; tomb interiors are warm and involve stairs, and a balloon flight is best booked for your first morning.

Luxor is where most travelers realize how much of ancient Egypt survives above ground. Within a short drive you have the largest temple complex in the country, a royal necropolis cut into the hills, and dozens of smaller temples and private tombs that many visitors never reach. That density is the reason Luxor rewards a plan. Without one, people spend their best morning hours in traffic, see tombs in the midday heat, and leave feeling they rushed past the things they came for.

This is the briefing our guides give the evening before a Luxor program, whether you arrive by plane, by train from Cairo, or on a Nile cruise. It covers how the city is laid out, how to choose tombs, how to handle the heat, and the small practical points that make the days smoother.

The two banks and how to split them

The Nile divides Luxor into two very different halves, and understanding that division is the single most useful thing you can know before you go.

The East Bank: the living city

The East Bank is modern Luxor: hotels, the corniche, the souk, the train station, and the two great temples of the god Amun. Karnak sits on the northern edge of town, a vast complex built and rebuilt over roughly 2,000 years, with the Great Hypostyle Hall, obelisks, the sacred lake, and avenues of sphinxes. Luxor Temple stands in the center, close to the river, and is linked to Karnak by the restored Avenue of Sphinxes. The Luxor Museum and the Mummification Museum are also on this side, along the corniche.

The West Bank: the necropolis

Across the river is the land of the dead, as the ancient Egyptians saw it, facing the setting sun. Here are the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, the workers' village and tombs at Deir el-Medina, the terraced temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahari, Medinet Habu (the mortuary temple of Ramesses III), the Ramesseum, the Tombs of the Nobles, and the two Colossi of Memnon standing alone in the fields. You reach it by road bridge south of the city or by motorboat across the river.

A classic two-day split

• Day one, West Bank: leave early, go straight to the Valley of the Kings while it is cool and quiet, then Hatshepsut's temple, a stop at the Colossi of Memnon, and Medinet Habu or Deir el-Medina if energy allows. Back at the hotel by early afternoon.
• Day two, East Bank: Karnak at or close to opening, a long lunch and rest, then Luxor Temple in the late afternoon, staying as the lights come on.

If you arrive on a cruise ship, the order may be reversed to fit the sailing schedule; the logic of early tombs and a lit Luxor Temple still applies.

Choosing your tombs in the Valley of the Kings

More than 60 tombs have been found in the valley, but only a rotating selection is open on any given day. Tombs are closed in turn for conservation, because visitors' breath and humidity damage the painted plaster.

The standard ticket gives you entry to a fixed number of the tombs open that day. Rather than choosing by fame, let your Egyptologist guide choose by condition, decoration, and crowd level that morning. A guide who visits weekly knows which corridors are packed with groups and which equally beautiful tomb is almost empty.

A few tombs are sold as separate tickets:

• Tutankhamun (KV62) is small and simply decorated compared with the great Ramesside tombs, but it holds a unique draw: the king's mummy still lies here, in a climate-controlled case. His golden treasures, including the famous mask, are displayed at the Grand Egyptian Museum near Giza.
• Seti I (KV17) is one of the longest and most elaborately decorated tombs in the valley, with a ticket priced accordingly. For anyone serious about ancient art, it is the one to consider.
• Ramesses V and VI (KV9) is often a good-value extra, with astronomical ceilings in strong color.

Most other royal mummies, including Ramesses II and Seti I, are not in Luxor at all; they rest in the Royal Mummies Hall of the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo. It helps to know this before you go, so you are not looking for them in the tombs.

Photography without flash is generally allowed in the valley, though rules have changed over the years and some tombs or cameras may carry extra conditions. Your guide will tell you the current position at the ticket office.

Timing, heat, and pacing

Luxor is hot for much of the year and very hot from May to September. The tombs are enclosed, humid, and often reached by long sloping corridors and wooden stairs.

• Start early. In summer, West Bank visits typically start between 6 and 7 a.m.; in winter, a little later is fine, but early still means fewer people.
• Carry water and drink before you feel thirsty. A hat, sunglasses, and sun protection matter on the open West Bank, where there is little shade between sites.
• Wear closed, comfortable shoes with grip. Tomb floors can be worn smooth, and temple courts are uneven.
• Pace yourself. Three tombs and two temples is a full and satisfying morning. Adding more in the heat usually means you remember less.

The East Bank temples can be done later in the day, because Karnak is large and shaded in places and Luxor Temple is especially atmospheric in the evening.

Carriages, boats, and vendors

Luxor has a long tradition of horse-drawn carriages (calèches) along the corniche and feluccas on the river. Both can be lovely, especially a sunset felucca sail, but the approach in town can be persistent.

• Agree the price, duration, and route before you set off, and make sure you and the driver mean the same currency.
• Let your guide or hotel arrange it if you would rather not negotiate. They know fair rates and reputable drivers.
• Expect a vendor gauntlet between the parking area and some West Bank sites, especially at Hatshepsut's temple. A polite, firm "la, shukran" (no, thank you) and continuing to walk is enough.

None of this is dangerous, and most of the people you meet are simply trying to make a living. A little preparation makes the difference between irritation and an easy smile.

The balloon decision

Hot-air balloon flights over the West Bank at dawn are one of Luxor's best-known experiences. You rise as the sun comes up over the eastern hills and look down on the temples, the green fields, and the edge of the desert. Flights usually last somewhere between 40 minutes and an hour in the air, after a very early hotel pickup.

Ballooning depends entirely on the weather. Flights are canceled when the wind is wrong, and the authorities sometimes suspend flying for the day. For that reason, book it for your first morning in Luxor, so that if it is canceled there is a chance to try again. Travelers with back or knee problems, and pregnant travelers, should take the landing into account; it can be firm. Ask us about current operators and safety standards when you plan.

If you have a third day

Two full days cover the essentials. A third day lets you go deeper without rushing:

• Dendera, about an hour and a quarter north, has one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt, dedicated to Hathor, with colored ceilings and rooftop chapels.
• Abydos, further north, holds the temple of Seti I, known for its detailed relief carving. It is a long day but a memorable one when combined with Dendera.
• The Luxor Museum is small and well lit, a calm counterpoint to the big sites.
• More of the West Bank: the Tombs of the Nobles, the Ramesseum, or the Valley of the Queens.
• A slow morning by the river, which many travelers say they wish they had planned from the start.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need in Luxor?

Two full days cover the essentials of both banks at a comfortable pace. Three days let you add Dendera, Abydos, a balloon flight, or the quieter West Bank sites without rushing. If you are on a Nile cruise, Luxor sightseeing is usually built into the first or last day of the sailing.

Which tombs should I visit in the Valley of the Kings?

Let your guide choose from the tombs open that day, based on decoration and crowds. Typically that means a selection of well-decorated Ramesside tombs, with Tutankhamun or Seti I added as separate tickets if you wish. The open list changes regularly for conservation reasons.

Is Luxor Temple worth visiting after Karnak?

Yes. It is smaller and easier to take in, and it is especially atmospheric at sunset and after dark, when the columns and statues are lit. Many travelers find it the more memorable of the two.

Is Tutankhamun's mummy still in his tomb?

Yes. Tutankhamun is the exception: his mummy remains in tomb KV62 in the Valley of the Kings. His treasures are at the Grand Egyptian Museum, and most other royal mummies are at the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo.

When is the best time of year to visit Luxor?

October to April is the most comfortable period for sightseeing, with warm days and cool mornings. Summer is very hot, but early starts and midday rest make it manageable, and the sites are quieter.

Plan it with Nourbelle

If you would like Luxor built into a wider trip, see our Luxor destination guide or tell us how you like to travel, and a specialist will suggest a plan that fits your pace.