Philae Temple

Philae Temple is the great sanctuary of the goddess Isis, set on an island in the Nile just south of Aswan. Today it stands on Agilkia island, where it was moved stone by stone in the 1970s, and you reach it by a short motorboat ride across the water between rocky granite islets.

Much of Philae's appeal comes from its setting. Colonnades, pylons and pavilions rise from a small island surrounded by water and dark boulders, and the approach by boat, with the temple slowly coming into view, is one of the most memorable arrivals in Egypt. Travelers in the 19th century wrote about it with real affection, and it still has a calm, unhurried feel compared with the great temples of Luxor.

Philae also marks an ending. It was one of the last places where the old Egyptian religion was practiced, long after Christianity had spread through most of the country, and it holds the latest known hieroglyphic inscription. Standing in its courts, you are looking at the final chapter of a tradition that lasted for thousands of years.

History in brief

Isis was the devoted wife of Osiris and mother of Horus, and by the late period she had become one of the most widely worshipped deities in the ancient world. Philae, on the southern frontier of Egypt, became her most important sanctuary. According to tradition, the nearby island of Biga held a sacred burial place of Osiris, which gave this stretch of river a special holiness.

The oldest buildings standing today date to the 4th century BC, under Nectanebo I of the 30th Dynasty, but most of the temple complex was built under the Ptolemies, beginning with Ptolemy II. Roman emperors, including Augustus, Tiberius, Trajan and Hadrian, added halls, gateways and decoration. Isis was worshipped here by Egyptians and also by Nubians from the south, whose rulers sent offerings and whose pilgrims kept coming for centuries, even after Christianity became the official religion of the Roman Empire.

The latest known hieroglyphic inscription, dated to AD 394, was carved at Philae, and inscriptions in Demotic, the everyday script of later Egypt, continued for some decades after that. The temple was finally closed in the 6th century AD under the Byzantine emperor Justinian. Parts of it were later used as a church, and you can still see Coptic crosses cut into the walls and figures of the old gods deliberately defaced.

In the modern era, Philae faced a new threat. After the first Aswan Dam was completed in 1902 and later raised, the island spent much of each year partly under water, and visitors toured the flooded temple by rowing boat. The building of the High Dam threatened to leave it permanently submerged and exposed to damaging fluctuations in water level. As part of the UNESCO campaign to save the monuments of Nubia, a cofferdam was built around the island, the water was pumped out, and the temples were dismantled into tens of thousands of blocks and rebuilt on nearby Agilkia island, which was reshaped to resemble the original site. The rebuilt temple opened to visitors in 1980.

What to see

• The Kiosk of Nectanebo I. Near the landing stands one of the oldest structures on the island, a small pavilion with columns topped by the face of Hathor. It marks the start of your walk.
• The colonnades. Two long rows of columns flank the approach to the temple, each with a different capital. The western colonnade is the better preserved, and its windows once looked out over the water toward Biga.
• The First Pylon. The great gateway of the Temple of Isis is carved with large scenes of the king striking his enemies before Isis, Horus and Hathor. In the doorway, look for an inscription left by French scholars and soldiers of Napoleon's expedition in 1799.
• The birth house (mammisi). Inside the forecourt on the left, this building celebrated the birth of Horus, son of Isis. Its reliefs show Isis nursing the young god among the papyrus marshes where, in myth, she hid him from Seth.
• The Second Pylon and the inner temple. Beyond the forecourt, the second gateway leads into a hypostyle hall where traces of color survive on columns and ceiling, and on to the sanctuary, which still holds the stone pedestal for the sacred boat of Isis.
• The Gate of Hadrian. On the western side, this gateway has reliefs connected to the myth of Osiris, including a well-known scene of the Nile god in a cave beneath rocks, encircled by a serpent, showing the mythical source of the flood.
• The Temple of Hathor. A small temple on the eastern side has charming reliefs of musicians and of the god Bes playing instruments and dancing, connected to the festivities that honored Hathor.
• Trajan's Kiosk. This elegant open pavilion by the water, with 14 tall columns, is the classic photograph of Philae. It was probably used as a monumental gateway for the sacred boat of Isis arriving from the river.
• Coptic crosses and later graffiti. Throughout the temple, crosses carved into the walls, Greek inscriptions and travelers' names trace the island's long later history.

Stories behind the site

The walls of Philae tell the myth of Isis and Osiris in many scenes. Osiris was murdered by his brother Seth, and Isis searched for his body, restored him to life long enough to conceive their son Horus, and then raised the child in hiding until he was old enough to avenge his father. The cult of Isis as a mother and protector spread far beyond Egypt, across the Mediterranean and into Rome, and Philae was the place pilgrims considered her true home.

The relocation is a story in its own right. Engineers surveyed and numbered every block before dismantling, and the reconstruction on Agilkia followed the original plan closely, with the island landscaped so that the temple faces the same direction and sits in a similar setting. When you look at the walls, you will notice the fine joints between the cut blocks, a quiet record of one of the great rescue projects of the 20th century.

How to get there

Boats to Philae leave from a landing at Shellal, south of Aswan town, a short drive from most hotels and from the Nile cruise moorings. The crossing takes about 10 to 15 minutes each way in small motorboats shared by a group or family. Most travelers visit with a guide as part of an Aswan sightseeing tour, which usually includes the transfer and the boat.

A sound and light show is held on some evenings, with the temple lit while a narration tells its story. Check the schedule and language of the show if you would like to see it.

How long to spend and when to go

Allow one and a half to two hours in total, including the boat crossing. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times, both for the softer light on the stone and the water and for the cooler temperatures. The island has limited shade, and midday in summer can be very hot.

The months from October to April are the most comfortable for sightseeing in Aswan. Philae is busy at peak times, especially when cruise groups arrive together, but it rarely feels as crowded as the major sites in Luxor. Ticket prices, boat fares and opening hours change, so check current details or let your guide arrange the visit.

Tips from our specialists

• Have your boat arranged in advance. Your guide or cruise can book it, which saves time and bargaining at the landing.
• Sit on the side of the boat that faces the island as you approach. The first view of the temple is the best part of the crossing.
• Finish at Trajan's Kiosk. The water side of the island is often quieter, and the view back to the temple is lovely.
• Look for the Napoleonic inscription in the first pylon doorway and the Coptic crosses inside the temple. They show how many different people have passed through.
• Bring a hat, sunscreen and water. The paths between the buildings are open to the sun.
• Step carefully when getting on and off the boats, which can move with the water, and keep bags and cameras secure.
• If you plan to attend the evening show, bring a light layer in winter, as it can be cool on the water after dark.

Nearby sights to combine

• Aswan High Dam. A short drive away, the dam explains why Philae had to be moved and offers wide views over Lake Nasser.
• The Unfinished Obelisk. In the ancient granite quarries of Aswan, this giant obelisk, abandoned after it cracked, shows how the Egyptians cut and shaped stone.
• The Nubian Museum. In Aswan town, this museum tells the story of Nubia and the international campaign that rescued its monuments, including Philae.
• Felucca sailing and Elephantine Island. An afternoon on the river around Aswan's islands, with a visit to the ruins and museum on Elephantine, makes a relaxed end to a temple morning.
• Abu Simbel. The temples of Ramesses II, also saved by the UNESCO campaign, are usually visited on a separate full-day trip from Aswan.

Frequently asked questions

Is Philae Temple on its original island?

No. It originally stood on Philae island, which is now under water. In the 1970s it was dismantled and rebuilt on nearby Agilkia island, which was shaped to resemble the original site and reopened to visitors in 1980.

Do I need to book the boat in advance?

You can arrange a boat at the landing, but booking through your guide, hotel or cruise is easier and avoids bargaining. Organized tours normally include the boat.

Is the sound and light show worth it?

If you enjoy seeing a temple at night, it is a pleasant evening outing, and the island looks beautiful lit up. Shows run in different languages on different nights, so check the schedule first.

Why is Philae linked to the end of ancient Egyptian religion?

Worship of Isis continued here long after most temples had closed, and the latest known hieroglyphic inscription, from AD 394, was carved here. The temple was finally closed in the 6th century AD under Justinian.

How much walking is involved?

The island is small and the paths are mostly level, so the walking is easy. The main effort is getting in and out of the boats, and you should allow for some steps at the landings.

Philae is a highlight of any stay in Aswan and a standard visit on Nile cruises that start or end there, and it pairs naturally with the High Dam on the same morning.