The Ramesseum and the Tombs of the Nobles

The Ramesseum and the Tombs of the Nobles make a strong second morning on Luxor's West Bank. The Ramesseum is the mortuary temple of Ramesses II, known for its toppled colossus and battle reliefs, while the nearby nobles' tombs show daily life in color. Allow about three hours for the temple and two or three tombs.

Most first-time visitors to Luxor's West Bank see the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon, and then head back across the river. If you have a second morning, these two sites are a rewarding next step. They are close to each other, usually much quieter than the headline monuments, and they complement the royal tombs well: the Valley of the Kings shows kings and gods in the afterlife, while the nobles' tombs show Egyptians working, eating, celebrating, and mourning.

This guide explains what to look for at each site, how the tombs are typically ticketed, a sensible route, and how to combine both with Medinet Habu or Deir el-Medina.

The Ramesseum: Ramesses II's temple of memory

The Ramesseum was built in the 13th century BC as the mortuary temple of Ramesses II, the long-reigning king of the 19th Dynasty. Mortuary temples on the West Bank were places where the dead king was worshipped and remembered, separate from the hidden tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Ramesses II intended his to be one of the grandest, and even in its ruined state its size is clear.

Much of the temple has been lost to time, flooding and the reuse of its stone in later buildings. What survives is still enough for a rich visit, as long as you know where to look.

The fallen colossus

The most famous sight is the shattered colossal statue of Ramesses II lying in pieces near the second court. When complete it was one of the largest freestanding statues ever made in ancient Egypt, carved from a single block of granite. Today you can see enormous fragments, including parts of the head and torso. Walk around them to grasp the scale: a single foot or ear gives a better sense of the original than any photograph.

The ruins of the Ramesseum, and a colossal bust of the king taken from it to the British Museum in the 19th century, are closely associated with Percy Bysshe Shelley's poem Ozymandias, which uses the image of a broken statue of a mighty king in the desert. Reading the poem before you visit adds a layer to the experience.

The pylons and the Battle of Kadesh

The temple's pylons and walls carry reliefs of Ramesses II's campaigns, including the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites, a theme he also displayed at Luxor Temple, Abu Simbel and elsewhere. Look for chariots, fleeing enemies and the king shown at a heroic scale. The carving is weathered in places, so ask your guide to point out the clearest sections.

The Osiride pillars and the hypostyle hall

In the second court, large statues of the king in the form of Osiris, god of the afterlife, stand against the pillars. Beyond them, the hypostyle hall keeps many of its columns. In a smaller hall beyond, part of the ceiling carries astronomical decoration, one of the details that rewards a slower visit.

The mud-brick storerooms

Behind and around the stone temple are the remains of vaulted mud-brick storerooms, workshops and administrative buildings. They are easy to overlook, but they show that a mortuary temple was also an economic institution, storing grain and goods and supporting priests and staff.

Plan around 45 minutes to an hour at the Ramesseum. It is rarely crowded, which makes it one of the more peaceful temples on the West Bank.

The Tombs of the Nobles

The hills behind the West Bank's temples are honeycombed with hundreds of tombs built for officials, priests and courtiers of the New Kingdom. The main areas are Sheikh Abd el-Qurna, el-Khokha and Dra Abu el-Naga. Only a selection is open to visitors at any time.

Unlike the royal tombs, which focus on religious texts and the journey of the king through the underworld, the nobles' tombs are full of scenes from life: harvests, fishing, and fowling in the marshes, banquets with musicians, craftsmen at work, and funerals. The paint in the best-preserved tombs is remarkably fresh, and the chambers are small enough that you stand very close to it.

Highlights to ask for

• Rekhmire: A vizier under Thutmose III and Amenhotep II. His tomb shows craftsmen, brickmakers, and sculptors at work, and foreign delegations bringing tribute, among them people from Nubia, Punt, and the Aegean world.
• Sennefer: A mayor of Thebes under Amenhotep II. His burial chamber, reached by a steep descent, is famous for its ceiling painted with a grapevine and bunches of grapes.
• Nakht: A small tomb with well-known scenes of harvest, wine-making and a banquet with female musicians.
• Menna: A scribe of the fields whose tomb shows agricultural work and a fine marsh scene of fishing and fowling.
• Ramose: A vizier from the reigns of Amenhotep III and Akhenaten. His tomb includes exquisite raised reliefs alongside scenes in the new Amarna style, giving a rare view of that transition.

Other tombs, such as those of Userhat and Khaemhat, are often grouped with Ramose, and the combinations available can change.

How the tombs are ticketed

Tombs of the Nobles tickets are generally sold for small groups of tombs, typically two or three per ticket, at the West Bank ticket office rather than at each tomb. Which tombs are open, and how they are grouped, changes over time as tombs close for conservation and others reopen. Ask your guide or check at the ticket office on the day, and if specific tombs matter to you, say so in advance so the route can be planned around them.

Photography rules inside tombs can also change. Follow the current rules on your ticket and any instructions from the guardians.

A practical route for the morning

1. Start early at the Tombs of the Nobles. The hillside is exposed and warms up quickly. Visit two ticket groups, for example Nakht and Menna, then Rekhmire and Sennefer, depending on what is open.
2. Continue to the Ramesseum. It is a short drive away. Walk from the pylons through the courts to the colossus, then out to the storerooms.
3. Add a third site if you have energy. Medinet Habu, the mortuary temple of Ramesses III, has some of the best-preserved colored reliefs on the West Bank. Deir el-Medina, the village of the craftsmen who built the royal tombs, pairs well with the nobles' tombs thematically.
4. Finish before the midday heat. Return to the East Bank for lunch, or stop at a West Bank restaurant.

This works as a three- to four-hour outing at a steady pace. Combined with Medinet Habu, it fills a full morning.

Practical tips

• Expect short climbs. Reaching most tombs involves an uphill walk on uneven paths and steps down into the chamber. Good walking shoes are essential.
• Allow for small spaces. Some tombs are cramped, and guardians may let groups in turn by turn. Be patient and give others room.
• Carry water and sun protection. There is little shade on the hillside or around the Ramesseum.
• Bring a small flashlight only if allowed. Tombs are lit, but rules on extra light vary.
• Do not touch the walls. The paint is fragile, and oils from hands damage it.
• Be ready for offers. Guardians may offer to show you details in exchange for a tip. You can decline politely.

Who will enjoy these sites most

If you have one day on the West Bank, the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut's temple remain the priority for most travelers. The Ramesseum and the nobles' tombs are ideal for a second West Bank visit, for travelers who prefer quieter sites, and for anyone interested in how ordinary people of rank lived. Photographers and families with curious children often enjoy the nobles' tombs in particular, because the scenes are easy to read: people sowing, reaping, fishing, and feasting.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Ramesseum worth visiting?

Yes, especially on a second day on the West Bank. It is less complete than Medinet Habu, but the fallen colossus, the Battle of Kadesh reliefs and the Osiride pillars are memorable, and the site is usually calm. Its link with Shelley's Ozymandias adds interest for many visitors.

Which Tombs of the Nobles should you see?

Rekhmire, Sennefer, Nakht, Menna and Ramose are among the most rewarding. Rekhmire shows craftsmen and foreign tribute, Sennefer has the famous grapevine ceiling, and Nakht and Menna show farming and banquet scenes. Availability changes, so confirm which are open on the day.

How are the Tombs of the Nobles ticketed?

Tickets are generally sold for small groups of tombs, often two or three tombs per ticket, at the West Bank ticket office. The groupings and the tombs open change over time. Check on the day or ask your guide to plan around the tombs you most want to see.

How much walking is involved?

Expect short uphill walks on uneven paths to reach the tombs, and steps down into some chambers, including a steep descent at Sennefer. The Ramesseum is flat but spread out. Most reasonably mobile travelers manage well with good shoes and an early start.

Can you combine these sites with the Valley of the Kings?

You can, but it makes a long and hot day. Most travelers enjoy them more on a separate morning, combined with Medinet Habu or Deir el-Medina. That way each site gets proper attention rather than a rushed visit.

Plan it with Nourbelle

We can build a second West Bank morning around the tombs and temples that interest you, with a guide who knows which tombs are currently open. Explore our Luxor destination guide and Egypt tours, or tell us about your trip.