Temple of Hatshepsut

The Temple of Hatshepsut rises in three broad terraces against the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari on Luxor's West Bank. It was built as the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, one of the few women to rule Egypt as pharaoh, and it was dedicated above all to the god Amun, with chapels for Hathor, Anubis and the cult of the queen and her father, Thutmose I. The Egyptians called it Djeser-djeseru, usually translated as holy of holies.

Its design sets it apart from almost every other Egyptian temple. Instead of enclosed halls and dark sanctuaries, it is a sequence of open colonnades and ramps that seems to grow out of the rock face behind it. Even if you have seen many temples, the first view from the approach stays with you, and its reliefs record events you will not find told in such detail anywhere else.

The name Deir el-Bahari is Arabic and means the northern monastery, after a Coptic monastery that once stood on the site. It is a reminder that this place, like so many in Luxor, was reused long after the pharaohs.

History in brief

Hatshepsut ruled in the 15th century BC during the 18th Dynasty. She was the daughter of Thutmose I and the wife of Thutmose II. When her husband died, she became regent for the young Thutmose III, his son by another wife, and within a few years she took the full titles of a king. She ruled for about two decades, a period known for building projects and trade rather than major wars.

Her temple was built during her reign, and her high official Senenmut is traditionally credited as its architect. She chose a site beside the older temple of Mentuhotep II, an 11th Dynasty king who had reunited Egypt, whose ruins you can still see next to hers. The choice linked her to a respected ancestor and to a place already sacred to Hathor.

Each year during the Beautiful Festival of the Valley, the statue of Amun crossed the Nile from Karnak and visited the temples of the West Bank, and Hatshepsut's temple was a key stop on that route.

After her death, many of her images and names were chiseled away, a campaign usually dated to the later years of Thutmose III, perhaps to secure the succession of his own line. Much of what you see today has been restored, largely through the long-running work of a Polish-Egyptian archaeological mission that has worked here for decades.

What to see

• The ramps and terraces, which give the temple its distinctive profile against the cliffs. The lower terrace once held gardens, and traces of tree pits have been found near the entrance.
• The Lower Colonnade, where reliefs show the transport of two great obelisks by river from the granite quarries of Aswan to Karnak.
• The Punt Colonnade on the middle terrace, with reliefs of a trading expedition to the land of Punt, showing ships, incense trees and the people of Punt, including the well-known figure of the ruler of Punt and his wife.
• The Birth Colonnade, where reliefs present Hatshepsut as the daughter of Amun, supporting her right to rule.
• The Chapel of Hathor, at the southern end of the middle terrace, with columns topped by the face of the cow-eared goddess.
• The Chapel of Anubis, at the northern end of the middle terrace, where some of the best-preserved colors in the temple survive.
• The upper terrace, with its row of statues of the queen in the form of Osiris, the open sun court and the sanctuary of Amun cut into the cliff. In Ptolemaic times the inner sanctuary was extended and later linked to the cult of two deified wise men, Imhotep and Amenhotep son of Hapu.
• The Temple of Mentuhotep II, the older ruined terraced temple beside Hatshepsut's, which helps you see where her architects found inspiration.

Stories behind the site

The Punt reliefs are one of the most famous records of a trade mission from ancient Egypt. Punt was a land of incense, ebony and exotic animals, generally placed somewhere along the southern Red Sea coast, though its exact location is still debated. The reliefs show houses on stilts, myrrh trees being carried in baskets, and goods loaded onto Egyptian ships, along with careful drawings of fish and sea creatures.

The divine birth scenes show the god Amun visiting the queen's mother and the god Khnum shaping the child on a potter's wheel. Similar scenes appear later at Luxor Temple for Amenhotep III. For a woman taking the throne, such a story of divine parentage was a powerful political statement.

In several places Hatshepsut appears with the false beard and dress of a male king, as tradition required. Senenmut, her architect, had small images of himself carved behind the doors of chapels on the upper terrace, where they would be hidden when the doors were open, an unusual privilege for a non-royal official.

Hatshepsut herself was buried in the Valley of the Kings, in a tomb that lies on the other side of the cliff from her temple. A mummy identified in 2007 as hers is now at the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo.

How to get there

Deir el-Bahari is on the West Bank, close to the Valley of the Kings, and the two are usually visited on the same morning. From the east bank, it is around 30 to 40 minutes by road. From the visitor center, a small electric train runs to the foot of the temple and saves you a hot walk. A footpath over the hills links the area with the Valley of the Kings; ask locally whether it is open and suitable before attempting it.

How long to spend and when to go

Allow about an hour to an hour and a half, or a little longer if you want to study the Punt and birth reliefs closely. Go early in the morning. The terraces have little shade, and the cliffs reflect the heat by midday, especially from May to September. The morning sun also lights the front of the temple nicely, as it faces east toward the river.

Ticket prices and opening hours change, so check current details before you go or let your guide take care of them. Winter months are the most comfortable and the busiest.

Tips from our specialists

• Look closely at the Punt reliefs. Small details, such as the fish in the sea and the animals loaded onto the ships, are easy to miss.
• Notice where faces and names have been cut out. These gaps tell the story of how her memory was treated after her death.
• The best overall photograph is from the approach path, where you can frame the full temple against the cliffs.
• Wear a hat and sunglasses, and carry water. The pale stone reflects a lot of light.
• The ramps are fairly gentle, but they are long. Take your time if you have limited mobility.
• If you have extra time, ask about adding the nearby Tombs of the Nobles, which are often much quieter.

Nearby sights to combine

The Valley of the Kings lies just behind the cliffs and is the natural partner for this temple. The Colossi of Memnon are on the road from the river. The Tombs of the Nobles, the workers' village of Deir el-Medina, the Ramesseum and Medinet Habu are all within a short drive and make good additions for a longer West Bank day.

Frequently asked questions

Who was Hatshepsut?

Hatshepsut was an 18th Dynasty ruler who became pharaoh in the 15th century BC after serving as regent for Thutmose III. She ruled for about two decades and is remembered for her building projects and the expedition to Punt.

Why were her images destroyed?

Many of her names and images were removed after her death, usually dated to the later reign of Thutmose III. Historians often link this to securing the succession of his own family rather than personal hatred, but the exact motives are still discussed.

How long do I need at the temple?

Most travelers spend about an hour to an hour and a half. That is enough to walk all three terraces and see the main reliefs.

Is there a lot of walking?

The electric train takes you close to the temple, but you still walk up long ramps to the terraces. The surfaces are fairly even, and the walk is manageable for most visitors.

Can I visit the temple and the Valley of the Kings on the same day?

Yes, and most travelers do. The two sites are close together, and an early start lets you see both before the worst of the heat.

The Temple of Hatshepsut fits into a classic West Bank morning from Luxor, together with the Valley of the Kings and the Colossi of Memnon, whether you are staying in town or on a Nile cruise.