Jerash

Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the Middle East, located in the green hills of northern Jordan. Its colonnaded streets, temples, theaters and monumental gates stretch across a wide valley, giving you a clear sense of how a prosperous city of the Roman East was laid out and lived in.

Known in antiquity as Gerasa, it is Jordan's largest Roman site and, after Petra, one of the country's most rewarding ruins. It is also easy to reach, just under an hour's drive north of Amman, which makes it a natural half-day or full-day trip.

What makes Jerash special is its completeness. Rather than a few isolated monuments, you walk through a whole urban plan: a main street lined with columns, side streets, squares, a market, fountains, temples, theaters and churches. The modern town of Jerash sits beside the ancient city on the eastern side of the valley, so you can see how life here has continued over the centuries.

History in brief

The site was settled long before the Romans, and a Hellenistic town grew up here in the centuries after Alexander the Great. Gerasa flourished after the Roman general Pompey brought the region under Roman control in 63 BC. It became one of the cities of the Decapolis, a group of Greco-Roman cities in the region, and grew rich on agriculture, trade and its position on routes linking the cities of the area.

The city's golden age came in the first and second centuries AD, when much of what you see was built or rebuilt. After the Nabataean kingdom was annexed in AD 106 and new roads were laid, trade increased. The emperor Hadrian spent the winter of AD 129 to 130 in the city, and a triumphal arch was built to mark the occasion.

In the Byzantine period many churches were added, often reusing stone from older buildings, and Christianity became the dominant religion. The city continued under early Islamic rule, and remains from the Umayyad period, including a mosque, have been found. A major earthquake in AD 749 caused heavy damage, and the city slowly declined. Much of it lay buried under sand and soil for centuries, which helped protect it until excavation and restoration began in the twentieth century.

What to see

• Hadrian's Arch: The triple-arched gateway at the southern entrance, built for the emperor's visit. It stands outside the city walls, and was probably meant as the start of a new southern district that was never completed.
• The Hippodrome: A long arena near the entrance, once used for chariot races and other events. It is one of the smaller hippodromes of the Roman world, but its long shape is easy to read on the ground.
• The South Gate: The main gate in the city walls, beyond the hippodrome, leading into the ancient city.
• The Oval Plaza: An unusual oval forum ringed by Ionic columns, one of Jerash's most photographed spots. Its shape is unusual among Roman cities, and it links the main street to the Temple of Zeus.
• The Temple of Zeus: On a hill above the Oval Plaza, this temple has tall columns and commanding views over the site.
• The South Theater: A large theater next to the Temple of Zeus, with excellent acoustics and views over the site from its upper rows. Performances are still held here during festivals.
• The Cardo: The main colonnaded street runs north through the city, still paved with original stones that show grooves worn by cart wheels. Look for the drains beneath the paving and the remains of shops along the sides.
• The Macellum: The market, a building around a courtyard off the Cardo, where food was sold.
• The Nymphaeum: An ornate public fountain along the Cardo, built in two stories with niches that once held statues and a large basin in front.
• The Temple of Artemis: Dedicated to the city's patron goddess, the temple stands within a vast sacred enclosure approached by a grand stairway, with tall columns still standing.
• Byzantine churches: Several churches with surviving mosaic floors, showing geometric patterns, animals and inscriptions, grouped near the Temple of Artemis.
• The North Theater: A smaller theater at the northern end, quieter and well restored, with carved seats bearing inscriptions.

Architecture and details worth noticing

Jerash shows classic Roman town planning adapted to the land. The Cardo forms the main axis, crossed by two side streets, and the junctions are marked by tetrapylons, monuments with four pillars or pedestals standing at the crossroads.

Look up at the capitals of the columns. Along the Cardo they change from Ionic to the more ornate Corinthian style, showing that the street was rebuilt and widened in stages. The Oval Plaza's columns are Ionic and carry stone lintels, giving it a different feel from the main street.

In the Temple of Artemis, ask your guide about the columns that are said to move slightly in the wind. Small details like this, together with the inscriptions on statue bases and theater seats, help you imagine the city as it was.

How to get there

Jerash lies about 50 kilometers north of Amman, just under an hour's drive in normal traffic. Most visitors come on a guided day trip from Amman, often combined with Ajloun Castle. The site entrance and visitor area are on the southern side, near Hadrian's Arch.

From Egypt, the easiest route is a flight from Cairo to Amman, with Jerash as a day trip from your hotel.

How long to spend and when to go

Plan on at least two to three hours to walk the main route from Hadrian's Arch to the Temple of Artemis and back, and longer if you enjoy archaeology. A half day lets you see the highlights at a comfortable pace, while a full day allows you to explore the side streets and the North Theater. The site is large and open, with little shade.

Spring and fall are the best seasons, and spring is especially lovely, when wildflowers grow among the ruins and the hills are green. Summer is hot, so start early or come late in the afternoon. Winter can be cold and wet but quiet. In summer, the Jerash Festival brings concerts and performances to the ancient theaters. Dates, opening hours and ticket arrangements vary, so check current details before you go.

Tips from our specialists

• Visit in the morning or late afternoon, especially from late spring to early fall, when midday heat can be intense.
• Wear a hat, sunscreen and comfortable shoes. The ancient paving is uneven and can be slippery.
• Carry water. The walk is long and there is little shade.
• A guide makes a real difference here. Many of the buildings are easy to miss or misread without someone to explain how the city worked.
• In the South Theater, stand at the center of the stage and speak to hear the acoustics for yourself.
• Photograph the Oval Plaza from the hill near the Temple of Zeus for the best view of its shape.

Nearby sights to combine

• Ajloun Castle: A medieval Islamic fortress about half an hour away, built in the twelfth century by a commander of Saladin, with views over the Jordan Valley.
• Ajloun Forest Reserve: Wooded hills with walking trails, a good contrast to the dry south of Jordan.
• Amman: The capital's own Roman theater and the Citadel hill, with its Temple of Hercules and Umayyad Palace, pair naturally with Jerash.
• Umm Qais: The ruins of ancient Gadara, another Decapolis city, in the far north, with views over the Sea of Galilee and the Golan.

Frequently asked questions

How long do I need at Jerash?

Two to three hours covers the main sights. If you love archaeology, or want to explore at a slower pace, plan for half a day.

Is Jerash worth visiting if I am also seeing Petra?

Yes. Petra and Jerash are very different. Petra is Nabataean and carved into rock, while Jerash shows the planned stone city of the Roman East, and many travelers find the two complement each other.

Can I visit Jerash and Ajloun in one day?

Yes. They are about half an hour apart, and together they make a full day trip from Amman, returning in the late afternoon.

Is the site suitable for older travelers?

The main route is mostly level but long, with uneven paving and some steps up to the temples and theaters. Take your time, rest in the shade, and choose a shorter route if you need to.

What is the Jerash Festival?

The Jerash Festival is an annual summer festival of music, dance and performance held in the ancient theaters and plazas. Dates and programs change each year, so check before you travel.

Jerash slots easily into a combined Egypt and Jordan itinerary as a day trip from Amman.